BEDROOMS FOR BUDDHA

Mulgirigala is a buddhist monastery on an extraordinary rock thrusting vertically from the jungle a few miles inland from Tangalle on the south coast of Sri Lanka. Begun by King Saddatissa, 120BC, it was renovated by King Kirti Sri Rajasinghe in the 18th century. I love the tiny white office, squashed under the mountain, and the impossibly steep steps cut into the rock, while a vast boulder seems to be propped by the little sticks that worshippers, presumably, have left with prayers. The upper stair, above left, climbs through a canopy of Frangipani trees which inspired me to decorate my dining room ceiling.

The cave temples are like sumptuously decorated bedrooms for 15m long, recumbent statues of Buddha in the state of Parinirvana (final release through bodily death of the completely enlightened - isn't that what we're all after?) The statue that has been so beautifully glazed-in must be the oldest, but of course the paint is kept absolutely fresh everywhere, with that Eastern lack of interest in the patina of age. The ceiling's vivid design of lotus blossoms is painted on rough-hewn rock, a final touch of glamour and visual luxury.