HADRIAN'S FLOORS

Hadrian's Villa, at Tivoli, 20 miles east of Rome, defies description and understanding, literally, since the purpose of many of its ruined buildings is not known for certain. Built between 118 and 135AD, it was essentially the simple country retreat that the name suggests, on an imperial scale, where the emperor could live with his court, staff and friends. The 'aerial views' above are of a 1930's model of the buildings as they probably once looked, with the main Residence on the left, above, and the fascinating Island Enclosure (an intimate, moated retreat for Hadrian) the circular structure to its right; below, as it looks today.

The scale is completely overwhelming, especially with the typically precise Roman brickwork, millions upon millions of bricks. Left below, the Scenic Canal, with its Triclinium at the far end, under whose dome Hadrian and his guests would lounge at interminable banquets.

The villa was pillaged for centuries, all of its great art treasures removed by cardinals and princes. Of the original decoration, apart from a few patches of painted wall and stuccoed vault, the best survivors are a number of floors of what may have been guest rooms. Most are fabulously inventive and varied monochrome mosaics; then there are a few geometric designs in marble; and one, simple and chic, of red cement with an inlaid meander pattern of white marble chips.