MARIE-LOUISE'S BATH

The chateau de Compiègne is fabulous to visit: very beautiful and often almost deserted. A-J Gabriel's restrained neoclassical architecture is sublime, but the highlight for me is the suite prepared for Napoleon (above, facing his mother down the huge length of the ballroom) and his second Empress, Marie-Louise of Austria, who arrived here in March 1810, aged 18, to marry the 40-year-old Emperor. His bedroom, below, is a supreme piece of Empire decor, its cerise silk damask featuring his royal bees, while the splendid gold embroideries include olive branches (for this rare moment of peace in the Corsican Conqueror's career.)

The Empress's bedroom, below, loses any idea of restraint, with its gilded angels holding curtains over the gilded cornucopia-ended bed, surrounded by the finest furniture that Jacob-Desmalter could produce. The door to the right, however, leads to a much simpler space, the circular, ivory silk-draped bathroom, with four sets of curtains pulled back to reveal door, fireplace, commode and bath. This last is a mirrored alcove, with mirrored ceiling and a little seat that removes to reveal the bath. Only the swan's neck taps between the silk cushions hint at the possibility of washing in this most refined of all bathrooms.